There is increasing popularity of the use of braided lines in all types of fishing. Braids can be fished effectively on spinning reels as well as casting reels, and I personally use braid on both.

You will need to consider the type of fishing you are going to do and what type of fish you are chasing when determining which casting reel to purchase for the use of braided lines.

The differences in the reels to consider are that of a disengaging or non-disengaging level wind (the part that your line goes through and that guides your line back and forth across the spool while retrieving).

Reels that have a disengaging level wind, such as most of the small low profile baitcasting reels, the level wind is driven only when you are turning the reel handle. “Reels that have a non-disengaging level wind, such as the Abu round reels, some Calcuttas, The Toro version of the Abu REVO, etc. the level wind is driven by the spools movement, whether the reel is in gear or in free spool.”

The Abu Round reels such as the 6500 C4 shown below have a non disengaging level wind. The level wind is driven by spool movement:

The Shimano Curado shown below has a disengaging level wind. The level wind is driven by turning the handle. The level wind is disengaged when in free spool or when just the spool is moving while a fish is taking line:

My recommendation to you all is that if you are chasing fish that will take long, hard runs, or repeated drag burning runs while you are fighting them, it is to your benefit and advantage to purchase a reel with a non-disengaging level wind (one that is driven by spool movement). This way, as the fish is peeling off line on a hard run under some drag pressure, the level wind is following/guiding the braided line off of the spool. I have repaired many reels that were broken because of using disengaging level winds for big hard running fish. Braid is a very tough, abrasive, no stretch, unforgiving line. The angles created by the line coming off of the reel through a stationary level wind can destroy the level wind system. On the other hand, fishing for bass or other fish that do not take drag burning runs, a disengaging level wind is fine and works wonderfully.

For spinning reels the above does not come into play. You can fish braided line on all good quality spinning reels without much concern.

Tight lines and screaming drags to all!!

Hello all,

Just a tidbit of advice from The Reel Tech. Im sure you guys all have reels with a thumb bar disengagement systems such as Shimano Curados, Citicas, Calcuttas, Chronarchs, Pfleuger Presidents, Trions, Daiwa baitcast reels etc etc.

All of these systems have a bar, either metal or plastic, that extends from inside the reel and into the plastic or aluminum thumb bar that you actually press down to disengage the reel and put into free spool. Looking from behind the reel, the actual button you press is either closer/connected to the left side or right side of the reel depending whether it is a left or right hand retrieve.

A recommendation on my part to prolong the life of your clutch system on your reels and reduce wear to the parts, is to make sure when you depress the thumb bar, your thumb is as close to the side plate that the button is set. This results in more of a straight down push and disengagement. Pressing down on the outside edge of the thumb bar adds undo stress to the assembly. The top of the button actually pulls away from the area where it is connected when you are pressing down. This adds much added stress to the system and causes both the internal and external parts of the clutch system to wear out quicker.

The bar that extends out from inside the reel into the thumb bar actually can break or bend out of shape, and once this happens, you have issues with buttons that stick in the down position or have a hard time depressing. Most of the well worn Curados I service all need a slight tweaking and reshaping of the metal bar that goes into the thumb bar.

ALSO, it is a GREAT idea to every once in a while put a little lube (light grease, or a little oil) on the surface where the clutch bar slides up and down along the plastic shim or the side plate. Once this area becomes dry and gets dust/dirt/grime on it, it is like sandpaper and will wear out the shim and side of the clutch bar.

By heeding the recommendations above, you will increase the longevity of your clutch system and slow the wear down process of the parts

I hope my descriptions make sense…..if not, please feel free to ask any questions you may have

Tight Lines!!

Before and after shots of a Shimano Calais that spent a couple of days on the bottom of the river. The lucky angler was fortunate to “re-catch” this fine expensive piece of equipment. Amazing how quickly dirt and debris finds its way into, under, and inside everything on the reel. Some Reel Tech TLC and she is good as new and ready to fish again!!

BEFORE:

Underside of reel, handle and spool showing debris buildup.

Heavy debris under the main sideplate.

Debris found under the star drag and into the anti-reverse bearing housing.

Debris buildup inside frame of reel.

Showing major debris intrusion inside and under sideplate.

Many parts need to be removed to get inside an intricate Shimano Calais.

AFTER:

Under side of reel clean and debris free.

Reel pieces are clean and debris free

Clean insides,lubed and ready to go.

Inside of main sideplate. Nice and clean!

Ready to fish!

Tight lines and good fishing to all!

Part of a customers batch of reels that I was servicing included a pair of older Shimano Stradic 4000 FE series reels. They had never been serviced before and I though I would share some before and after photos of one of them. Internally they were working great with no issues after many years of service. A good cleaning and lubrication on the inside, a detail job on the outside, and these reels are ready to fish again. Aside from the scratches, these are now in fine working order!

Before:
The reels had a heavy buildup of grime, solidified bait residue, and dirt buildup. The dirt gets everywhere, even underneath the covers and under the rotor.

After:
Aside from the scratches and other battle scars, the reel is now clean and working in top form.

Tight Lines and screaming drags to you!!

I had a customer bring me two Abu Garcia reels for service and repair. One of which had a story behind it. While fishing in the Rogue River, he caught an Abu Garcia 6500 C-3 reel that was at the bottom of the river. He gave me both reels with this story and told me to see what, if anything, I could do with the one he brought up from the bottom of the river. I looked at the reel, did a few quick troubleshooting things to determine if the reel was a total loss or not. Other than the obvious “river rash” it had from bouncing along the river bottom, I told him I thought I could get this thing to fishable condition again. Some thorough cleaning, a couple of replaced bearings and drags, and she is ready to fish!!

Lots of river debris inside reel:

River debris buildup on main gear:

Dirt and river debris inside reel:

The inside of the spool was full of debris. The two spool bearings were siezed and needed replacing:

A nice clean reel:

The customer is very pleased that he will now have a backup reel to take with him, a gift from the Rogue River!

Tight Lines!!

Had the pleasure of rebuilding a couple of older Shimano Calcutta for a customer. They belong to a guide here on the Rogue River who uses these for salmon fishing, so these reels have seen their fair share of hard use and abuse. A little TLC and some new parts, and they are good as new! They may show their age on the outside, but inside, they are 100% ready for battle!

A good word of advice to prolong the life of your drag washers, be they a wet drag system or a dry drag system.  Always back off the drag tension when you are done fishing for the day,  it doesn’t take long to reset the next time you use them.